C2C day 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite
Another good night’s sleep, and another full English breakfast! What with my big breakfast yesterday and my cafe stop at the end I hadn’t eaten my pack lunch yesterday, will eat it today, and maybe not have a full breakfast every day 😄. I chatted with a few other c2c’ers, Tom that Margaret the couple I’d met at flat fell, and Ann and Cathy two friends that meet up each year for a walking trip. Ann gave me a great idea for a North Wales one I want to try. They are doing the walk east to west so today is their last day.
Today’s forecast is chance of showers and light rain, more so later in the day. Also today so is the day I rendezvous with my friend Helen and her brother John. The plan is for them to drive to Rosthwaite and start walking towards me, with a goal of meeting on the path along the top after loft Beck. With that is mind I set out as early as I could after breakfast. I again didn’t wear my waterproof trousers since even with the showers yesterday I hadn’t felt I needed them.
Leaving the . Shepherds Arms behind, it’s a short walk on a trail beside the lane down to Ennerdale water (2k), then a 5k stretch down the south side of Ennerdale Water, with views across and beyond all the way along. Mostly a stoney trail with ups and downs from the water and a few rockier climbs and decents especially around Robin hoods chair (a large rock jutting out onto the lake). Also there’s quite a lot of water on the trail… This was to become I theme of the trip, I felt I did a big percentage of the trip walking through paths that have become streams!
I enjoyed this section a lot, despite the on and off showers. The other option especially if the weather is very bad is to take the lane/track that runs along the north side on the water. Still some good views of the water and easier and quicker.. but not so fun!
I made a little mistake as I navigated from the water to the left to join up with the track on the north side… I turned left a little too early, infront instead of behind the stone wall. It was fine, but I had to go in and out of about 4 sheep pens to get out of there!
I met up with Tom and Margaret from breakfast here, they had taken the north side route, it was nice to meet up with the same people now and then and have little chats!
The next section I felt was a bit boring, following the fairly straight and flat track with some but limited views right to the river and hills beyond due to forestry trees, and to the left some trees and not much view up to the peaks. There were several new looking C2c signs. The hard route over red pike and other peaks through to Haystacks (Wainwright ‘s favourite) turns off just along here. But would add too much time for me today, and was a bit worried about how hard the scrambles would be with my pack and the rain showers. The track passes Ennerdale YHA, lovely location and building and as the track started to rise there are nice views back to Ennerdale Water.
At about 14k the track finishes and a rough trail continues beyond. This is also where Black Sail hut YHA is, originally a shepherd bothy, converted to a remote YHA in 1933. Very picturesque. Also a handy toilet or coffee stop!
It was dramatic views all the way from here. Especially as the trail climbs up Loft Beck. The trail is rockier here, with some grassier sections below.
After pausing many times to take in the views (partly obscured with the weather but still brilliant) I continued on along the top, and soon spotted Helen and John walking towards me. Lovely to see them 😁. But was had passed the best views by then so we walked back a k or so for them to experience them too, and I had no problem seeing the area again! We then retraced their steps to the tramway (at 18k), and walked down to Honister mine. The tramway was originally used to transport Westmorland green slate down from the quarries to the mine works, and is relatively steep with loose stones. When very wet this section can be slippery.
We had got a bit chilly on the top with the wind blowing, although the forecast was 13 c the same as the last 2 days. Will have to have me gloves handy tomorrow. We stopped at Honister mine cafe for a cup of tea to warm us up, then headed out on a stony path that first crosses the road a few times, then bipasses Seatoller and heads towards Rosthwaite. Or you can add a very small amount and go through Seatoller (21.5k), either way you decend most of the way at this point. We walked through Seatoller to check out the dinner option – looks like an nice old style pub with a bit too expensive menu. Then back on the trail which after passing Borrowdale YHA (23k, another dinner option – cooked dinners about £10), crosses a few fields with sheep grazing and reaches Rosthwaite and Yew tree farm guest house where we are staying. 7 hrs and 26.5k including the extra about 2.5k out and back.
The flock inn tea room was still open (closed at 5pm) and we met our Yew tree farm host there. It’s an very pretty old farmhouse with wooden beams, and me and Helen shared a smallish twin room with a large ensuite bathroom.
There is a restaurant open to non residents at the royal oak hotel in Rosthwaite. It is a 2 or 3 course meal with set prices, looks very good, but more than we were wanting for tonight. As John had his car there, and it was raining, we decuded to eat at the Langstrath inn 5mins drive down the road. Another beautiful old inn. And we all had the Steak and ale pie with mash and vegetables – really good.
The forecast for tomorrow was the same showers and light rain – so as we went to bed we were hopeful it would be a similar day to today.